Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 Trend: Slim Waist, Wide Hips.

The image of a slim waist and wide hips continues to hold its position in the hearts of the public. It is not only a symbol of physical beauty but also a representation of confidence, allure, and vitality.

Since the 16th century, we have had pannier dresses (bell-shaped skirts) that helped women achieve the standard hourglass figure mentioned above. In the Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 fashion week, pannier dresses are making a comeback, reimagined by fashion designers to bring a modern touch.

These dresses celebrate the hourglass silhouette.

Initially, they were small baskets made of wood or metal, worn at both hips to create a fuller appearance for the lower body. By the 18th century, panniers became popular among the nobility and upper classes in Europe. They were designed more elaborately, with frames made from wood or whale bone, covered in fabric and adorned with lace, silk, and jewels. At this time, panniers were not just an accessory but also a symbol of social status and wealth.

However, as the revolutionary movement against the aristocracy emerged, this style gradually fell out of favor. Nonetheless, panniers have made impressive “comebacks” on the fashion runway and in the designs of many famous haute couture houses, becoming a trend in the 2010s with softer peplum dresses that still celebrate the waist and hips of women.

Pannier dresses on the Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 runway.

This year’s Haute Couture collection by Christian Dior draws inspiration from the Rococo style of the 18th century, when pannier dresses were at their peak of popularity. However, with a punk twist, the panniers reveal their internal structures similar to birdcages adorned with meticulously attached flowers or the finest silk chiffon.

All the looks in this year’s Schiaparelli collection emphasize the waist and hips, giving models an almost surreal appearance of an impossibly tiny waist. Some designs, like the dress worn by Kendall Jenner, reshape the wearer’s figure by enhancing the hips and creating a snug waistline. The silhouette resembles a column from ancient Greek times, drawing inspiration from the story of Icarus (the name of the Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 collection).

The Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 collection by Valentino blends the dramatic flair of Alessandro Michele with Valentino’s inherent romanticism. We see designs that honor Valentino’s heritage but are dramatically transformed into incredibly voluminous, powerful gowns featuring wide shoulders, full skirts, and elongated train silhouettes. Notably, looks number 11 and 44 showcase dramatic and luxurious panniers, exemplifying this bold aesthetic.

The collaboration between Jean Paul Gaultier and designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin brings forth jackets, corsets, and cone bras made from Gaultier’s signature leather, infused with the familiar sensual and bold details of Ludovic. Some pieces feature peplum silhouettes, while others look particularly striking with corsets that incorporate geometric and edgy lines. These designs are sure to make an appearance on international red carpets soon, as they are truly impressive.

Making her debut at the haute couture fashion week, Miss Sohee unveiled a collection that harmoniously blends the beauty of French and Korean culture. From France come the pannier dresses reminiscent of the old nobility, while from Korea, traditional artisanal techniques are showcased, such as mother-of-pearl inlay on lacquer and fine embroidery techniques unique to the Korean peninsula. Through the collection, the designer envisions the image of “a noblewoman from the Chosun dynasty of Korea” and draws parallels between traditional Korean and Western attire.