Fashion as a Concept: Designer Jonathan Anderson

There are designers who enter fashion as masters of craftsmanship, where each cut and stitch is not only a technique but also likened to the bricks that build a lasting heritage. However, there are also dreamers who see fashion not merely as the art of creating garments, but as an ongoing dialogue with the era, transforming clothes into a language that opens up ideas, challenges outdated norms, and writes untold stories. Jonathan Anderson is one of them.

For over a decade at the helm of LOEWE, Jonathan Anderson has not only redefined an enduring luxury brand but also changed the way we perceive fashion in a new era. Anderson boldly steps across the inherent boundaries between art, design, and philosophy, turning each collection into a conversation with the times. To understand him, one must not only look at the Puzzle bags or surreal designs but also listen to how he allows fashion to voice its opinions.

When Fashion is Not Just Fashion

From surreal designs like the monstera flower-inspired creations in the LOEWE Spring/Summer 2023 collection, balloon-shaped high heels, to “pixelated” hoodies and creative presentation formats such as “show-in-a-box” or “show-on-the-wall” during the pandemic, Jonathan Anderson continually questions the limits of fashion. He transforms clothing into a language to engage with the times, reflecting cultural and societal shifts. Under Anderson, LOEWE is steeped in the spirit of experimentation.

In the context of the pandemic, Anderson reshaped the fashion show experience through creative formats like “show-in-a-box.”

The “LOEWE Foundation Craft Prize” is one of the most notable achievements during Jonathan Anderson’s 11-year leadership at LOEWE. In his farewell article to the brand, he emphasized, “One of the achievements I am most proud of is establishing the Craft Prize. We have created a genuine platform to support and honor crafts that are gradually fading away, young artisans, seasoned masters, and new ideas.”

Under his influence, the brand represents not only luxury but also embodies the role of a guardian of heritage, a patron of contemporary craftsmanship. This award is a testament to the spirit of preserving and nurturing the values of craftsmanship – a spiritual legacy that Anderson artfully cultivated at LOEWE. Thus, amidst the dazzling and ever-changing world of luxury fashion, LOEWE engraves a distinct identity – where fashion goes beyond glamorous creations, connecting with tradition, paying homage to art, and committing to societal sustainability.

In Anderson’s view, fashion is not merely a product; it is a means for him to engage with the world, raise questions about beauty, change, and the essence of luxury in a new era.

LOEWE Under Anderson’s Leadership

Before Anderson, LOEWE was a long-standing house cherished for its premium leather materials but remained quietly overshadowed by the glitz of contemporary fashion. Under his leadership, the brand has not only donned a new look but also become a symbol of creativity. It serves as a crossroads where fashion engages with art, where heritage is redefined through the lens of the times, showcasing previously unimagined possibilities. More importantly, it reflects how Anderson has changed the public’s perception of luxury.

Luxury under Anderson transcends mere materials or craftsmanship; it is embedded in the spirit of creativity, in the way he questions the conventional limits of fashion. He redefined the notion of “luxury fashion” by continuously experimenting with shapes, structures, and visual arts.

Each collection by Anderson serves as a slice of thought – sometimes deconstructing what is familiar, such as the LOEWE Spring/Summer 2015 collection with its whimsical leather patches and draped fabrics on the body. At times, it plays with the boundary between reality and the virtual, such as when he launched a series of pixelated hoodies during the “Metaverse” craze. He also turns to nature, creating structured tops mimicking the shape of flowers – a deliberate contrast to soft dresses, yielding images that are simultaneously surreal and poetic.

Rihanna and Beyoncé dominate social media in designs by LOEWE.

However, the LOEWE of Anderson is not distant from the general public. Each fashion season, every new design from the Spanish house sparks curiosity, especially among the younger generation. He makes it a part of contemporary life, a brand everyone wants to understand, discuss, and possess. From Rihanna’s striking red outfit at the Super Bowl, where she announced her second pregnancy, to Beyoncé’s “hand” catsuit in the “Renaissance World Tour,” LOEWE transcended the runway to leave its mark on iconic moments.

Jonathan Anderson collaborates with Studio Ghibli, reinterpreting familiar childhood memories through the language of fashion.

LOEWE garments become part of the visual language, contributing to the narrative in the upcoming “Queer” (2024).