The Marvelous Treasure of Jewelry by Van Cleef & Arpels

From the Caribbean region in Miami, USA, the maritime journey of pirates John, David, and Jim… has arrived at Phuket Island in Thailand, bringing many precious and breathtaking treasures. These are the jewelry pieces from the latest high jewelry collection, Treasure Island, by the jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels.

The Treasure Island collection by Van Cleef & Arpels is inspired by the classic book of the same name by author Robert Louis Stevenson, first published in 1883. Like any adventure story, the collection is divided into three chapters, allowing viewers to embark on a journey at sea with the characters and sailors to a deserted island. There, they discover the beautiful wonders of nature, flora, and fauna, culminating in the moment they find colorful treasures. Why this book, over 140 years old, and what makes this collection even more special? ELLE Vietnam had the opportunity to talk with Ms. Julie Clody Medina, President of Van Cleef & Arpels Asia Pacific.

After seeing the Treasure Island collection up close, I want to return to the starting point. Why did the creative team choose the book of the same name by Robert Louis Stevenson as the main source of inspiration? What came first: the gemstones or the creative story?

I think we need to return to the essence and DNA of Van Cleef & Arpels, as well as the tradition and strength of storytelling of the Maison. Since the 2000s, we have launched a themed high jewelry collection each year, inspired by various artistic fields, including literature. We have collections inspired by “A Midsummer Night’s Dream,” “Romeo and Juliet” by William Shakespeare, and the fairy tales of the Brothers Grimm… With the Treasure Island collection, we wanted to present a story that encompasses everything the Maison represents, a story that takes us all on an adventure, a journey that you don’t necessarily need to board a ship to cross the ocean. It can also be an inner journey. But it is definitely a collection that brings a lot of joy.

The creative process at Van Cleef & Arpels is quite fascinating and can stem from a conversation, an idea, or a childhood memory… Four years ago, we began selecting and searching for the perfect gemstones based on the chosen theme. It is the result of a multitude of exchanges. The nearly 48-carat emerald was one of the first treasures we found for the collection. Then, the most beautiful gemstones of the highest quality were paired with the savoir-faire crafting techniques that are part of the Maison’s centuries-old heritage, such as the Mystery Set. Thus, the adventure of Treasure Island guides us through three chapters. The first chapter is the adventure at sea, involving everything related to ships, pirates, and ocean waves… The second chapter takes the explorers to a remote, deserted island, showcasing all the wondrous beauty of nature, which is something Van Cleef & Arpels has always cherished. Finally, the third chapter is the treasure hunt, where we discover stunning treasures influenced by Indian motifs, pre-Columbian designs from South America… Perhaps the most wonderful aspect is that the theme of the collection transcends generational boundaries and geographical borders, as each of us certainly has childhood memories of adventures in our minds, exploring the world around us or hidden childhood treasures.

Will the Treasure Island collection continue to be developed in the future, ma’am?

Absolutely. The collection has made its first stop in Miami, now in Phuket, Thailand, and there will definitely be other destinations where we can continue to tell the story and take everyone on this wonderful journey through truly special events.

What is your favorite piece in this collection?

It is truly difficult to choose just one favorite piece of jewelry, as that emotion is like inspiration and mood—it can change from day to day. Particularly today, I want to talk about the Récif Corallien d’Eclesse necklace with rubies found right here in Thailand. The deep, vibrant red color of the rubies combined with diamonds, yellow gold, and rose gold evokes the beauty of shimmering coral beneath the water reflecting light. Together with the exquisite craftsmanship of the jewelry artisans, the gemstones are cleverly connected to create a second skin effect, carrying stories that truly pique your curiosity and delight. The inspiration for this necklace comes from a small town in Sicily, Italy. In the 17th century, the village of Trapani was home to the craft of coral jewelry making and had many influences from the Rococo style. Isn’t that wonderful and impressive?

Madam, how will the knowledge of traditional craftsmanship and the savoir-faire of the Maison be preserved and developed in the next 10, 50, or even 100 years?

I believe that is the most valuable asset we have. Alongside special events held in intimate yet unique locations for clients and the press, we are also deeply committed to opening the doors to the world of jewelry, which often seems quite mysterious, so that everyone who is interested can learn about it. Fifteen years ago, Nicolas Bos, when he was the CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, recognized that behind the doors of a high-end jewelry house over 100 years old was a vast world with many crafts developed over decades that needed to be shared and preserved. This was the idea behind L’Ecole, the School of Jewelry Arts, which was established 12 years ago in Paris. The mission of L’Ecole, with support from Van Cleef & Arpels, is to spread knowledge and a passion for jewelry to the widest audience possible. It includes classes for children starting from four years old. Participants may not have the means or resources to collect high-end jewelry, but they do have the interest and curiosity to attend discussions and classes around the pillars of the jewelry industry, from history to gemstones to craftsmanship techniques. L’Ecole now also has additional locations in China, Hong Kong, and Dubai.

The watches by Van Cleef & Arpels are also admirable wonders. In your opinion, what role do watches play in the Maison’s universe and in a woman’s world alongside her jewelry box?

Watches have been intertwined with the history of the Maison since its early days, with decorative timepieces that resemble bracelets, allowing women to check the time discreetly and elegantly. For us, beyond the exquisite craftsmanship techniques, time is an emotion, a dialogue between artisanal art, a perfect piece in the Van Cleef & Arpels universe, and stories told on the watch face that are harmonious and poetic. For many women, a watch is a highly personal item. One day, instead of a necklace, you may choose to tell your story through a watch. The owner has a strong attachment and connection to the watch, as you are the first to notice it. There are details you want to share with others, like small fairies or petals on the watch face; there are things you want to keep to yourself, like a memory or a special moment.

What is the balance in watchmaking, madam? Between innovation and technology to create movements and creativity, craftsmanship, and imagination to tell beautiful fairy tale stories?

We need all of it because technique and technology serve creativity and vice versa. We will not compromise in achieving what we desire. For example, artisans will do everything possible to express the gentle movement of grass swaying in the summer wind. This requires a combination of different métiers d’art, such as enameling and stone setting, alongside the complex movements inside the watch. We take our time to introduce a new piece only when we have achieved the absolute perfect result. At that point, the watch has reached the status of a unique work of art.